DIY: Slave Cyl Mod

Wytchdctr
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Joined: 2007-10-22

The Free Slave Cyl. Mod
Time: 10min... or so
Hard: Nope
What does it do?!?!. Your slave cyl has a spring (I know for sure the 01-05 elantras, tibs, and accents have this... dunno about the newest cars) and a plate that reduces the amount and speed of the fluid going from the clutch master cyl to the slave. This helps you slip your clutch, incase you can't drive. Why does this suck? Because it’s slipping your damn clutch. After removing this, the clutch will engage just a little bit quicker. Really nice when paired with a short throw.
Tools:
A socket wrench set
Bottle of brake fluid (big, probably about time to flush the system anyway)
Rags
Magnetic Screwdriver
Plastic tube for bleeding/not making a mess (optional)
How to:
Step 1:
If you have your stock intake, remove it. Some aftermarket intakes may not require this step.
Step 2:
If you don’t want to make a big mess, attach the hose and bleed all of the fluid out. If not put a rag behind the slave (towards the fire wall)

Step 3:
See the big nut to the right of the line? Remove it. If you did not empty the system already it’s about to. Once you remove that bolt (banjo fitting) DO NOT LOSE THE WASHER! Set it to the side with the bolt
Step 4:
On my car the spring/plate fell out on its own. On Ryan’s accent we had to use the magnetic screw driver. If it doesn’t fall out, push the screw driver up against the hole you just made in the slave cyl. Don’t cram the screw driver into it, just hold it up against the back of the slave .
Step 5:
Save for later, throw away, bronze, or make an action figure out of that spring and the plate. Whatever you want to do with it, just don’t put either back in the slave cyl.
Step 6:
Replace the washer and banjo fitting just like it came back out. This does not need a ton of torque on it. Just like you do with your oil drain plug.
Step 7:
Bleed the system. Fill the reservoir up, put the tube on the bleeder valve (take the cap off first), have someone pump it a few times, pump and hold, turn the bleeder until fluid starts to move, close it before the system looses all of its pressure, repeat the pump/hold turn the valve until you see no air bubbles moving through the plastic tube. Make sure you don’t run the reservoir dry doing that. Top off the fluid and your done.



 
ryan_lc2_2.0
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added to the DIY Articles.

added to the DIY Articles. thanks for posting this



 
TAK82
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Joined: 2007-10-24
wow..good info.. my

wow..good info..

my next tranny will definitley be a beta tranny..

from looking at madhatter's accent..the tranny and motor mount's seem to bolt up okay or is it??

the axles are different also yes?



 
ryan_lc2_2.0
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you pretty much have to

you pretty much have to have a shortened driver side axle cuz the differential is wider on the beta tranny.

as far as mounts go the front and back ones bolt right up. the top one has to be modified alot for the reverse light sensor to plug in.



 
samsquanch
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Joined: 2007-11-20
Wouldn't this also help with

Wouldn't this also help with the typical shitty 1 - 2 shift? I always found I have to take that one slower than any other shift and have heard and read this in many other places as well. Also heard switching to the Redline MT fluid helps.



 
ryan_lc2_2.0
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Yea this should help with

Yea this should help with this. As far as redline Mt90... That is the single best mod you can do to your tranny.

Taking this spring out will make your cltuch engage faster.